I buy cars for a living. So the last thing you’d expect me to tell you is — don’t sell your car yet. But that’s exactly what I’m going to say to some of you reading this right now. Because I’ve been doing this for over 20 years, and I can’t tell you how many times somebody called me ready to sell a car that just needed a $20 fix.
I’d rather you keep your car than sell it to me for the wrong reason. That might sound crazy coming from someone who buys cars, but here’s the thing — I can’t buy every single vehicle that calls me. If it’s not the right fit, I’m not gonna buy it anyway. So if I can help you avoid making a mistake, I will. And if you still want to sell after reading this, I’m here for that too. Call me anytime at (714) 900-3723.
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Sometimes It’s Not the Transmission — It’s a $20 Fuse
A lot of times people think their transmission is going out. The car isn’t shifting right, or it feels like something’s off, and the first thought is — this is going to cost me thousands. But in my experience, a lot of times it’s not the transmission at all. Maybe it’s a fuse. Could be a relay. Or you just need a spark plug and that check engine light goes off and the car runs perfect again.
I’ve seen this play out so many times. Someone calls me wanting to sell, I ask a few questions about what’s going on with the car, and I’m thinking — you don’t need to sell this. You need to spend $20 at AutoZone and your problem goes away. And I’ll tell you that. I’ll tell you exactly what I think the problem is and what to try first.
If I can help you with that, I will. I’ll give you advice on it over the phone. No charge, no obligation. That’s just how I operate.
The Mercedes Battery Problem I See All the Time
Here’s a perfect example. I’ve seen this many times on Mercedes vehicles specifically. The car starts acting up — the electronics are malfunctioning, things on the dashboard are going haywire, and the car isn’t driving right. So the owner thinks it needs major electrical work. Or they got a quote from a mechanic and it scared them into wanting to sell.
But what’s actually going on? The battery is old and it’s the wrong one for that car. Mercedes vehicles are picky about their batteries — you can’t just throw any battery in there and expect it to work right. Once you get the correct battery installed, all those weird electrical problems disappear. The car runs fine again.
I wouldn’t want to lie to somebody. If all you need is a battery and your car is going to run like new again, I’d rather tell you that than buy your car and profit off your not knowing. That’s not how I do business.
Cheap Fixes to Try Before You Give Up on Your Car
Before you decide to sell, try some of these yourself. I’m serious — most of these cost under $50 and take less than an hour. If any of them fix your problem, you just saved yourself from selling a car you didn’t need to sell.
Check Your Gas Cap ($15-20)
This is the number one thing I tell people on the phone. If your check engine light is on and you’re ready to sell the car over it — check the gas cap first. If the rubber seal is cracked, dried out, or the cap doesn’t click when you tighten it, then that alone can trigger a check engine light. A new gas cap costs $15 to $20 at any auto parts store. Swap it, drive for a day or two, and see if the light goes off on its own. You’d be amazed how often this is the entire problem.
While you’re at it, clean the filler neck — the part inside the fuel door where the cap screws in. Dirt and grime build up in there and stop the cap from sealing properly. A clean cloth with a little WD-40 on it takes about 30 seconds.
Reset the Car’s Computer (Free)
Sometimes your car’s computer is holding onto old error codes from a problem that’s already been fixed — or a problem that was never real to begin with. A quick reset can clear those codes and turn off dashboard warning lights.
Here’s how you do it. Turn the car off, pop the hood, and take the negative cable off the battery first — that’s the black one with the minus sign. Then take the positive off. Let it sit for about 20 to 30 minutes so all the stored energy drains out completely. When you reconnect, put the positive back on first, then the negative. Fire it up and let the engine run for a few minutes without driving — the computer needs a little time to adjust itself.
Now this won’t fix a mechanical problem. But if your check engine light was on because of a temporary glitch or an old code, this clears it. If the light comes back, then you know it’s a real issue worth diagnosing.
Replace the Air Filter ($25-50)
Your engine needs clean air to run right. So when the air filter is clogged with dust and dirt, the engine has to work harder — you lose power, burn more gas, and the whole car feels sluggish. Open the airbox under the hood, pull the filter out, and look at it. If it’s dark and dirty, replace it. A new one costs $25 to $50, takes 2 minutes to install, and the difference in how the car runs can be immediate.
Clean the Throttle Body (Free with a $10 Can of Cleaner)
Over time, a layer of black residue builds up on the inside of the throttle body and makes the air valve sticky. When that happens, you get rough idling, the engine hesitates when you hit the gas, and sometimes it stalls out completely. So pick up a can of throttle body cleaner for about $10. Take the intake hose off, spray the inside, wipe the gunk out with a rag, and put everything back together. You’ll notice the difference the first time you drive it after.
Clean the Mass Air Flow Sensor (Free with Cleaner)
The MAF sensor is a small part near the air filter that tells the computer how much air the engine is pulling in. When it gets coated with dirt or oil residue, the readings go haywire and your car runs rough, burns more gas, and might throw a check engine light. Get a can of MAF cleaner from any parts store, carefully remove the sensor, spray it down, and let it dry completely before putting it back. Don’t wipe it or scrub it — just let the cleaner do the work. Five minutes and you’re done. Do it every time you swap the air filter.
Swap the Spark Plugs ($20-40)
Worn spark plugs are one of the biggest reasons a high-mileage car feels tired. If your car misfires, idles rough, or feels like it’s lost its punch, old plugs might be the whole problem. A set of plugs costs $20 to $40 for most cars, and if you can turn a wrench, you can do it in your driveway in about an hour. I’ve seen guys swap their plugs and say the car feels like it woke up — that’s how much of a difference it makes.
Add a Fuel System Cleaner ($10-15)
Over time, gunk builds up in your fuel injectors and they stop delivering fuel the way they should. You get hesitation, poor gas mileage, and a rough idle. Next time you fill up, pour in a bottle of fuel system cleaner — any major brand from the auto parts store works. It costs about $10-15 and cleans things out as you drive. It’s not going to fix a major mechanical problem, but for buildup and sluggish performance, it can make a noticeable difference.
So between the gas cap, the computer reset, the air filter, the throttle body, the MAF sensor, the spark plugs, and a bottle of fuel cleaner — you’re looking at maybe $100 to $150 total if you do everything. That’s a lot less than selling a car you don’t need to sell. Try the cheap stuff first. If the problem is still there after all that, then call me.
Why I’d Rather You Sell Private Party Than Sell to Me
I know that sounds like a lie. But think about it — I can’t buy every car that calls me. A lot of times we don’t come to an agreement on price, and that’s fine. If it’s not the right fit for me, I’d rather you get the best possible outcome on your own.
So if your car just needs a spark plug to clear that check engine light, I’m going to tell you — put the spark plug in, get the light off, and sell it private party. You’ll get way more for it that way than selling it to me as a project car. That’s the honest truth.
But if you don’t want to deal with the headache of fixing it, listing it, dealing with Facebook Marketplace scammers, meeting strangers, answering a hundred questions about whether it’ll pass smog — that’s where I come in. You call me, I handle everything, and you’re done the same day. It’s up to you.
What Happens When You Call Me
Here’s something that drives me crazy about my competitors. You go to their website and before you can even submit a contact form, you have to answer 10, 15, sometimes 20 questions. Year, make, model, mileage, condition, is the engine running, does it have a title, what color is it — on and on and on. By the time you get through all that, you don’t even want to sell anymore.
With me, there’s no questions on my form. There’s a message box if you want to tell me about the car, and then I call you. That’s it.
On the phone, I give you a ballpark range — not an exact number. Why a range? Because I haven’t seen the car yet. Maybe you didn’t know there was a check engine light on. Or you didn’t realize the miles were rolled back on the odometer. It could even be a salvage title and you didn’t know what to look for. A range protects both of us from a big misunderstanding.
So for example — let’s say you call me with a 1999 Toyota Camry, running fine, 150,000 miles, minor oil leak. I’d say something like $1,000 to $1,500 on the phone. That gives you room to negotiate and me room to negotiate. At the end of the day, that’s what we’re doing — we’re negotiating. And I don’t see anything wrong with that.
What Happens When I Show Up
When I come out to look at the car, I don’t spend a long time on it. I’m not going to test drive your car around the block five times. I just open the hood, check for any major leaks, and see what’s going on. If everything matches what you told me on the phone — and it usually does — we stick to the number.
The paperwork is simple. I show you where to sign the title. We make a bill of sale. That’s it. If you don’t have the title, that’s fine — I bring the proper paperwork so you can sign it over and we handle it. You don’t have to go to the DMV. You don’t have to deal with any headache whatsoever.
And you get paid right then and there — cash, check, Zelle, Cash App, whatever payment works for you. I’ve had customers want every form of payment you can think of, and I have yet to see one I couldn’t provide.
One More Thing — Protect Yourself After You Sell
Whether you sell to me or sell to someone else, please do this one thing — file a Notice of Release of Liability with the California DMV right away. You can do it online at DMV.ca.gov. Just do it the same day you sell.
I’ve heard too many stories of people who sold private party and the buyer never registered the car under their name. Then the seller starts getting parking tickets, tow yard fees, even hit-and-run reports — all coming back to them because the car is still in their name. So the release of liability protects you from all of that. Don’t skip it.
Frequently Asked Questions
Will you really tell me not to sell my car?
Yes. If I think your car just needs a cheap fix to run perfectly again, I’m going to tell you. I’d rather help you than buy a car that isn’t the right fit for my business.
What if I call you and we don’t come to an agreement?
That’s fine. It happens. I’ll still try to help you figure out your best option — whether that’s fixing it, selling private party, or going another route. No hard feelings.
How do you give a ballpark range without seeing the car?
I ask you a few questions on the phone about the year, condition, and what’s going on with it. Based on my 20+ years of experience, I can give you a realistic range. The final number gets locked in when I see the car in person.
Why don’t you have a bunch of questions on your form?
Because most people don’t know how to describe what’s wrong with their car. And that’s okay. I’d rather just call you and figure it out in a 2-minute conversation than make you fill out 20 boxes on a website.
What do you buy?
Pretty much anything with four wheels — older cars, damaged cars, classic cars, fleet vehicles, work trucks, cargo vans, Toyotas, SUVs, box trucks. The only thing I don’t buy is semi trucks.
How fast can you come?
Usually same day. I work 7 days a week across all of Southern California — even 9 PM on a Saturday if that’s what works for you.
The Bottom Line
If your car needs a $20 fix, fix it. If it needs a $2,000 fix and you don’t want to deal with it, call me. Maybe you’re not sure which category you’re in, call me anyway — I’ll help you figure it out for free. That’s what I do. I’ve been doing this for over 20 years and I’m here to help, whether you sell to me or not.
I am not a corporate robot. I operate as a family at GoCarBuyer. See what other sellers say on our customer reviews page.
Sonny Miller — (714) 900-3723
GoCarBuyer.com
Cypress Office: 10601 Walker St Suite 102, Cypress, CA 90630
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